Kundan jewellery
is the traditional Indian gemstone jewellery and is one of the oldest forms of jewellery made and worn in India. It is the jewellery worn by the
royals
and is believed to have originated in Gujarat and Rajasthan but it flourished in greatly in the Mughal era as it received royal patronage. Even today, it remains an integral part of traditional wedding trousseau for a bride.
Process
Kundan is a method of gem setting in a jewellery piece, consisting of inserting gold foil between the stones and it’s mount, usually used to create elaborate necklaces. Meena Kundan, also known as Bikaneri or Jaipuri jewelery, is popular variation in Kundan, where in enameling with vivid colours and design (Meenakari) is on the reverse, while the kundan setting in the front so that a piece of jewelry has two equally beautiful surfaces, enamel at the back end and Kundan set gems in the front. The city of Jaipur in Rajasthan has traditionally been the centre for kundan jewellery in India.
Kundan care
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When replacing the jewellery after use, wipe it with a suede cloth to restore its shine.
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If space is an issue, place the jewellery in between layers of cotton wool and seal it in a good plastic bag.
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Do not clean the jewellery with soap and water.
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Keep a pouch of desiccant with the piece to protect it from tarnishing due to excessive humidity. Dampness causes the silver in the setting to tarnish and the enamel to crack.
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Handle the silk chord used to adjust the length of the necklace with care. Never wet the chord as it causes the zari in it to discolour.
Tips for Buying Kundan Jewelry
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Old, solid gold ornaments are sometimes filled with shellac. It is important to determine this in order to not be overcharged.
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In trying to differentiate between an old and a new minakari piece, remember that the older the piece, the more intricate the design and more brilliant the colour.
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To identify imperfections in a diamond, look for tiny, rents or fissures and specks. If the diamond has any of these, it is flawed. Note also that a real diamond can never have scratches on its surface, if it does, it is not a diamond.
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Genuine kundan-set crystal has a mellow, opaque appearance. Artificial kundan-set crystal is transparent and it glitters. This is due to the fact that glass has been used instead of crystal and colored tinfoil under the stones to create the illusion of color.
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New cord in an old piece should not make the buyer suspicious. It could have been replaced to hold the ornament together.
